This trip was made back in 2022, as a part of my travel to an academic conference in Bochum. My beloved Gonville & Caius College and the Engineering Department has sponsored this thip. Little did they know their money — which was supposed to be spent on a direct train journay between Cambridge and Bochum and costing the same, has been stretched so much — so this is also the reason why I have only decided to publish it now, so they won’t get me in trouble or deregister me from the course (since I have done the viva and pulling the plug now will be outragerous to everyone’s opinion).

It has been a long time since the travel, but since, tankfully/unfortunately/ I have not made any extensive travel as such, it it not too hard to recollect my memories.

Since the pandemic strike back in 2019, I had never done any proper travel. Amid the chaos in airport and the uncertainty of taking flights, I would rather go for a certainly uncertain way of travel, railways, at least, their staff are more familiar with dealing with delay and cancellation and there has been decades to build up a system that will cope with this level of uncertainties.

This article will be published in CURC’s Eagle after all editings are done and photos added. If you find it hard to read now, please come back in a few months’ time.

The journey

Itinerary

My itinerary involves five countries and took many days (let’s recollect them after I finish the article). I will break down the article based on each journey:

• London St. Pancras — Paris Gare du Nord
• München Hbf. — Budapest Keleti
• München Hbf. — Budapest Keleti
• Prague — Dresden
• Dresden — Berlin Hbf.
• Berlin — Bochum

Eurostar London St. Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord

https://www.opentraintimes.com/schedule/C03991/2022-08-02
https://www.opentraintimes.com/schedule/W69258/2022-08-02

I took the 1T27 Ely to King’s Cross train to London. Scheduled to depart from Cambridge at 12.14 and arrive at 13.03. It pulled up at KGX platform 8 with a slight three minute delay. Which is expected for this journey, and it doesn’t make much impact on my planned buffer time in London for lunch.

The Eurostar train to Paris I booked was scheduled for 1531. I arrived at St. Pancras just after the gates are opened at 14 o’clock, as they normally opens 90 minutes before the departure. The queuing layout soon made me realised it wasn’t necessary to arrive so well-ahead. There were three turns in the queue, where a small entrance was setup for each turn for the trains departs in 90 mins, 60 mins and around 45 mins. Which means I didn’t have to get there so early since I would be able to jump queue later on.

Maybe it is due to the aftermath of the chaos in Dover last week, passport checks by the Frenches were surprisingly relaxed. At the passport check, the French border police appeared completely unbothered after seeing the red cover of my passport, stamped on the observations page and let me through. Despite that I was holding a Chinese passport…

Gates opened 25 mins before departure, taking advantage of opentraintimes, I was very clear of where the train was and ‘coincidentally’ queued up at platform 5 before the platform announcement.

The 9O36 train (or as Eurostar would number it as 9036) was scheduled to depart at 1531. However, the signaller has decided to let the 1537 train 1J44 to dover departs first, then us. Which results in a 8 minutes late departure time. The then later Dover train runs in front of us, as it’s scheduled to call at Stratford Intl, we experienced consequence delays as the slow running previous service. By the train past Stratford Intl, it’s shown as 9 mins late. The train we gave way to, due to the scheduled stopping at Stratford Intl which consequently being overtaken by our train, also departs at its first station 2 mins late.

The eurostar train carries on at 8 minutes late and was running at a planned speed, lingering between 200-300 km/h. By the time it reached CTRL eurotunnel boundary, a knocked on 11 minutes delay was noticed. The troublesome southeastern train also becomes a the victim of this signalling error, arriving 7 mins late at Dover Priory. Eventually, the Eurostar train managed to catch up slightly on its motherland — France, arriving around 5 minutes late at Gare du Nord.

Despite this delay, I still have over one hour to catch up my next Nightjet Journey scheduled to depart from Gare de l’Est at 1958. By the time I arrived at the station, there was no sign of any train. There are total around 30 platforms at the station. It was impossible to check if the train was there constantly and there is no working opentraintime in France. My vague visual memories from the last visit suggested that DB train usually pull up around platform 1. Around 7.30, the screen shows a 30 delay message, which changed to 1 hour and 1:30 hour every half an hour since then. A very kind platform stall from SNCF used her poor, but at least comprehendible, English to told me that the train will start between platforms 1 and 10. Train crews arrived around 7.45 looking as confused as us about the delays.

Finally, it departs at around 10 pm. approx. 2 hours later than timetable. There was no show on the couchette coach I booked. only two toilets and two wash rooms.

The journey was bumpy and shaking. I didn’t had a good sleep. The train stopped at Mannheim for about half an hour, and carried on. It was extremely shaking on the stretch around Ulm. With a constant rail grinding, and for some reason, few harsh brakes to halt.

It arrived at my destination, München Ost, slightly over 1 hour late, at 6:45 am.

München Hbf. to Budapest Keleti

I somewhat like Munich Main station (Hbf.) and its architecture, but I am sure a lot of people will disagree with me: it is a typical brutalist matchbox. However, I would consider it as a good example of brutalism, as it is very different from the astrocity in Euston station. There are nice glass facade, tall station hall — basically a victorian station with through look but minus the flamboyant ornaments, afterall we were all broke after they’ve self-imposed the war — it was much nicer compared to Euston station, no concrete overcast on the platform, nor the undiffused diesel fuel due to the low ceiling.

There was not much momories remaining on Budapest station, nor do I remember what Keleti means (translator reminds me it means East). In general both terminii I have been to in Budapest seems to be nice 1900s grand baroque-ish style when money could be spent on railway infrastructures.

There wasn’t much drama on this journey, compared to the delay on my previous train. When I booked the ticket a month ago, timetable suggested that the train leave at 23:20. I re-checked the time a day ahead, and it has been changed to 23:01. Once again, when I walked by the departure board around 9 pm. It suggested a 45 minutes delay is possible — a typical thing you would expect in Germany. The train was already at the platform when I returned to the station at 10 pm, a rather surprising scene for a three-quater-hour delayed train. I boarded the nearly empty train around 22.30. Another surprise, the train guard is closing the doors around 23.10, rather than the delayed departure time at 23.46. A few the passengers , presumably, either forgot to check timetable change, or believed that the train will be 45 minutes late, made their last-second sprint to the train. A considerable congestion at the last few gangways were seen.

The train stopped at Salzburg for three hours. It was pushed in and out the platform several times. It was quiet and stable, apart from the shake from shunting back and forth.

When it arrived Budapest, some new carriages surprisingly appeared at the rear end. An SBB mark II is also sandwiched between the Hungarian coaches.

Budapest Nyugati to Praha hl.n.

Nyugati probably means anything amongst West, North, South, or Central, since we know Keleti is East. It is a nice station with tall glass facade next to a grand boulevard — typical eastern european style in those years, with trams still running thanks to the comrades.

Prague main station is a surprising discover, or the entire Prague public infrastructure. There is the old part above ground, but there is also a underground part of the station that looks over capitalistic than my communism stereotype gaind in China. The sunken station hall was built (probably) around 1970s to 1980s, and the decoration is very similar to a style on the British Hong Kong or Newcastle metro systems. There are walls with modern tiles and power-coat-painted/enamel wall panels — surely friends from Moscow shouldn’t have apprved for (well — nor have them for long).

The train was scheduled for 9:40 and only leaves station 4 minutes later.

There are 7 coaches, first class – dining – second class compartment 1 – 2 – second class open 1 – 2 – 3. These coaches are from various ages. The coach I made reservation on is the first compartment car. It’s electric system is failed. Indicator panel shows it keeps itself at the neutral section mode, where all power supplies are turned off. It was horrible without air conditioner during a heat-wave day at 31 degree. The second compartment car is newer, with working AC but Wifi was not functioning. Both open-plan coaches are new and there are good AC and WiFi, apart from the noise coming from the open gangway door. It seems to be functional but the guard for some reason decided to leave it open. The last coach is a un-AC second class coach, with nicer seats and an observation gangway.

The eastern europeans seems to have a very high tolerance to delays. It’s scheduled to stop three minutes at each station. However, its always more than 5 and by the time it reached Bratislava, it was already 45 minutes late.

I decided to have lunch between previous station and Bratislava, where there is about 50 minute before my suitcase is able to be stolen and taken off the train. Menu is eastern European pub classic. I went for pull pork since I have no expectation to their steaks, or roast pork, and no confidence with my teeth able to deal with the possible dish. The dining car experience was highlighted by the drought beer supplied on train. This is some sort of experience you would only expect on a British Pullman going through the Trent. I would say they are really good price. Two drink and a main for less than £10, apart from the other people on train with their sandwiches might not agree with me.

Before arriving Vklov-Tisnova station. The train takes the left hand side track to overtake a slow train. This was on a two-track railway. Throughout the entire route. There are three guards swaps. They did carefully inspect my rail pass, even insisted me to re-write the date with zeros as 06/08 instead of the 6/8 I filled in previously.

Prague to Dresden

Without delays, I presume this route is run by one set of coach doing nearly non-stop between Prague Berlin for the whole day. The service is run by the Czech national railway České dráhy (ČD), and its fully day timetable is shown. This might have been the case in an ideal world, but it would never be possible in reality, considering a large part of this journey are within the DB boundary, where delays are a part of railwaymen’s life. Around 20 minutes before departure, the departure board shows the scheduled platform. I am surprised when seeing this as the previous train is still running 50 minutes late and the subsequent train also shows 70 minutes late, how would this not be 60 minutes late?

When we turned up at the platform crowd are already gathered and it was so populated as people’s feet are fading the platform edge. The train pulled up at the platform on-time. It turned out I was wrong and too optimistic (or pessimistic). Rolling stock wise, they’ve put up a new set of train so it could depart on time. This coaches are made by Siemens in Vienna in the 2000s, but I wasn’t able to take any picture as it was too crowded and it would block people from boarding. There are free wifi, air-conditioner and power sockets on-board. Delay time wise, I made an entirely wrong assumption — it was not a 10 mins delay each way, instead, it was at least an hour.

Prague to Dresden delayed nearly 30 minutes. Overhead wire work on German side of the border only one track running and. We waited for a long while frustratedly at the station before border. The train then sail along the meandering line along the river Elbe valley. The dawn scene in the valley was stunning, golden shine was reflected by the buildings and river.

I spent some time lingering around Dresden Hbf. It was built in 18?? by the Bohemian Railway, later improved, bombed, and rebuilt. The current building was completed in 200? and designed by Norman Foster. Since his design has a consistent industrial style, so if I wish, I can call it taking a delayed train in the Law library, Stansted Airpot, or even an Apple Store!

Dresden to Berlin

This is another frustrating day in the DB boundary. See, I don’t hate DB for no reason — probably the only interesting thing they did was all staff before 1990s were banned from striking, so at least the delays won’t last for more than a day. The train was scheduled for 10.55 and around 10.40. A ČD train casually pulled up at the platform, which is followed by the confusing face on everyone waiting.

The train has the renewed ČD carriages with Wifi and sockets onboard. Despite being a ‘renew’ it doesn’t lose its good seats, which is a surprise to a British point of view. Since good seats will reduce capacity and impose safety risk.

Nearly an hour after departure, Wifi and PIDS screens were finally fixed — at least it’s showing the right destination. Apart from that, nothing (see picture)

Berlin to Bochum

Mediocre ticket checking. Just had a look on my pass and let me go. Dining coach is in poor condition with broken coffee machine. departure 1346. Claimed to have 20 mins delay an hour ago but managed to leave the station at 1350. Three minutes alighting time would be impossible for nearly a full train load of people with bags. Definitely a good choice paying 3€ extra for the seat reservation.

Returning – Bochum to Aachen

Aachen to Paris

Paris to London

Ticketing

Interrail Pass

I brought my Eurostar ticket on the NMBS/SNCB website with Interrail discount applied. Which costed €30 plus €4 booking fee. The website is poorly designed, which ‘reserves’ an extra ticket every time you refresh the webpage. My first ticket purchase was unsuccessful as my repeated refreshes have drained the pot of available tickets. I was then greeted with a email confirming the €4 booking fee without ticket, while €34 was debited on my account. I have to call them the subsequent Monday morning (on their local phone not the charged phone) to refund the money, and of-course total €34 despite the €4 booking charge was stated as non-refundable.

On the return journey, however, I was directed to the staff counter when I scanned my ticket and asked to show my Interrail Pass. Thought, apart from waving my pass, nothing was checked.

Nine-Euro Ticket

Blessed by the good old day before it became Nein-Euro Ticket, I managed to save a few days on my Interrail pass (and didn’t use them eventually, but that’s another worthless story).